ONLY ONE LIFE (Chapter 9 and over)

Text: Josetxo Errondosoro

Arriving in Australia, our traveler met one of his greatest desires, but also meant the end of his long adventure was a little closer. With these bittersweet feelings came to Sydney and began his wanderings through the land.

En route to Australia, thousands of feet below my feet, who knows where, crossing the invisible border that divides the Coral Sea Tasman Sea, two areas of the Pacific Ocean where the geography divides the waters of the northeast and southeast Australia respectively. Under normal circumstances, my thoughts also had flown imagining how it would be my way through the land to which I was going and the secrets that they would keep those seas, but was terribly preoccupied with other matters: he was sick and did not know why. It all started with some bowel problems, but the last few days was complicated with lung problems. Every time I thought it was more convinced that it was tuberculosis, as there are outbreaks of the disease in some islands of the archipelagos of Fiji and Vanuatu. Except a toothache I had in Panama, at the end of the first stage, two-year journey had had no remarkable medical problems, and this was the first time I was afraid of being seriously ill. In this guise I arrived at Sydney airport.

Time warp

Controls entry into the country were spent without further mishap that produce the care of the records of the Australian players, who are primarily concerned that no seeds and plants imported from other places, this also applies to any species of animals. Go from living in villages Melanesians Sydney was like going back in time: from prehistory to the twentieth century in a single bound. Although I do not really like big cities, I must admit that Sydney has its charm. In any case, why not say, I reassured about being able to access medical services unthinkable in places they came from. I had to work hard to find a pension in line with my economy, which in any case cost much more than they had hitherto had to pay elsewhere during this long adventure: welcome to the "first world".

Just a scare

Fortunately, the country has an excellent free health care, and the first thing I did after finding accommodation was to undergo extensive medical tests. To my relief, doctors ruled it was anything as serious as feared and it seemed that this was a severe intestinal infection, probably caused by drinking water in villages Melanesians, whose effects had begun to spread to other parts of the body. After becoming the medicines prescribed, and much more relaxed and I began to organize my next steps. Occurrence that I had better start looking for some great shop dedicated to spearfishing and ask her about the possibilities of fishing in the area. Before the formula I had worked elsewhere and here also failed. It was a fabulous chain reaction: I found the establishment, which even had a mechanic whose only mission is to repair and prepare the guns at home customer, I asked about the possibilities of the area and, after kindly giving me all sorts of explanations obviously were interested in the origin of this type so thin and largilucho who spoke English with a strange accent, I have the feeling that my journey to introduce and have opened the doors of Australia. On the third day after I arrived and stayed with several fishermen for a trip around the outskirts of Sydney and also give me all kinds of facilities, provided the following contact me on my way north. What more could ask for.

Matter of statistics

The first thing you notice upon entering the atmosphere of the Australian fishing is commonly spoken of large fish, especially sharks. Statistics in hand, claimed that the East Coast in general and Sydney in particular is one of the world where most shark attacks are recorded (1). At first, I took very seriously the stories I had, but now after it's been almost three years, only add simply that you have to be pretty crazy to be spearfishing in Australia. I mean seriously. But one thing at a time, I do not get ahead in the story. Between jokes and anecdotes, I became an idea of ​​the difficult situation I expected: muddy water almost all year, especially now, during the austral winter, several dangers, of which highlighted the sharks and jellyfish, and the best areas fishing far from shore. Everything was bleak. On our first fishing trip confirmed the first data, the turbidity, and also that my colleagues were constantly on guard, separating slightly from each other. Poor visibility, five or six feet, sometimes less, and the attitude of my colleagues ended up becoming infected some fear that the stories told were not so crazy. Oh, the happy statistics!, I started thinking.

Coffs Harbour

In the austral summer, the Jewfish (2), a highly prized species of perch and large, is a common catch in the waters of Sydney, but now few fish were interesting and I decided to continue traveling north, where I claimed that things were better. After a long train ride I arrived in Coffs Harbour, which provided the first contact on my route: David Birch. With over 40 years of experience behind him, Dave is one of the most known and respected in the environment of the country underwater fishing. He stopped competing in the 60's, the large number of catches that were made then end up in the trash, and devoted simply to enjoy with friends. In recent years, Dave has worked to promote spearfishing with a vision in which it is mindful of its sustainability in a global environment in which the ecosystem is degenerating quickly (works as a consultant and marine parks a member of the Australian Federation). To my despair, and despite all the facilities given by Dave, Pacific did not honor his name and could only do a few exits. Neither I was at my best, for he had blocked sinuses and offset was torture. Still, after much effort and suffering, and I guess very encouraged by the croaking of croakers, getting dive. It was when I captured the first specimens of this species in a sea that looked more like a big glass of milk. The jaws of sharks that were drying on the doors of the auction of a friend of Dave, a longline fisherman put their gear around, urged me not to insist on those parts.

The stories of Byron Bay

Byron Bay, 1995, a newly married couple dives with others in the area. During the safety stop, a great white shark begins to wander to the group and just heading for the woman. Her husband stands and suffers the onslaught of the beast. The diver is partially engulfed there in front of everyone. Then the shark disappears forever with his victim. This could be the plot of a movie fashion, but apparently it was a fact reported in the press worldwide. However, if you tell this story was a typical joke that you spend a newcomer, truth, grace did not see him anywhere. Arriving in Byron Bay and phoning Ray Powell, one of the contacts that had given me the same thing happened in Coffs Harbour, from the first time gave me every facility and made ​​me feel like my own home. Actually, a great people these Australians. "Take it easy", something like a "me alone", I answered every time I worried about not being a burden to them. Ray, as well as confirm the story of 1995 told me that a year later, he met with a great white shark while fishing in Hastings Rocks, June 96: "That day, the place was full of fish. Soon, several spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus brasiliensis) hung from the buoy. Suddenly, there was a great void. All animals disappeared and something told me to be on guard. I do not know why in a moment I had a premonition and looked back. There was a female of more than four meters heading slowly towards me. Without getting too long, was very fat, probably because she was pregnant. I only had time to give a strong boost with the tip of the spear. Then for a few minutes were eternal, the animal appeared and disappeared from sight. The visibility was ok, about 15 meters, and this left me some room to maneuver. He returned, but this time he approached the fish hanging on the buoy. The prowled several times but did not touch. I swam to the shore as I could while the animal was still lurking. My heart was pounding. Upon arrival to the rocks, and something quieter, I observed what was going to throw the remains of the fishing that only the surface of the sea turned into a show that I never again behold. After this experience, took me months to regain confidence and fish normally. " By the time Ray finished his story, my conviction that had to be extremely careful not need more incentives. Neither much soothed me your answer when, teach your fishing equipment, asked by small metal cylinders that held: "It luparas (3), explosive bullets. You know, if there are problems. "

In poor condition

The body was slowly recovering with antibiotics. Still, he showed his complaint in the form of mucus that there was no way to remove. It was particularly disturbing blocking the sinuses, which made me suffer a lot in the few opportunities that the weather allowed us to go to sea. A strict diet of fruits, vegetables and water was the ultimate solution, because in less than a week health improved dramatically and I was already able to fish without problems. Ray was when he invited me to Hastings Rocks, warning that it was a special place for the great amount of wildlife there used to concentrate and the regular presence of large gray nurse shark harmless (4). Before any of my gestures, or perhaps a comment that I made, I reassured me that lately he had seen animals dangers there. Hastings Rocks are a few rocky outcrops which are about 400 meters from the coast, which form a channel, and is located about 20 minutes drive south of the city. In the channel depth is around 10 meters and off the bottom drops steeply. The day in question, the surface of boiling water of life. Fish of all kinds, among which were beautiful and carangids note of several species, struggling with the herds of dolphins for their livelihood. The benefit would have been guaranteed if the scenario is not a sort of milky soup: visibility varied between about 3 and 8 meters. As in Marquesas, we chose to fish together and always giving back to the rocky areas. I did not need anything to ask my partner as he too looked it some tension. Although both wore luparas on the sleeves of the suit, I wondered what would serve with that visibility. I also wondered if the fish would be able to follow a trail of adrenaline, because then they would be very simple to me. The scares were constant, especially the abundance of those sharks "harmless" whose steely glare in the middle of a dense fog stopped me little heart every time. Fortunately, everything went well and did a superb fishing, which would highlight several croakers over 20 kilos. But honestly, I had fear.

Sea and leisure

Lost fishing days succeeded by the strong prevailing wind and spent hours helping in their daily lives both Ray and Tony Huge, excellent freediver of the Australian team with whom he also spent several days. Still we could do some interesting outputs, as Noosa Head, north of Brisbane, and what they called "Mile 21", a far lower outside the Sunshine Coast, where, again with turbid water, though somewhat less than on the coast, I saw the first Australian coral, some large groupers of a protected species, gray nurse sharks and many, and where we could make good catches, yes, but not without scares guard down at any time. But there were many more days I had to go running around Surfers Paradise, reading, helping my friends and playing pool and drinking beer, I will not say that life is bad but that did not quite convince me when I still had a long journey betray. Sometimes, I reflected on all fishing days lost and wondered whether it was a premonition to stop tempting fate and I forget about the fishing in those places. Again, I said that things would be better further north and decided to continue my journey. After nearly fourteen hours of being packed in a bus I arrived in Townsville.

Townsville and the Great Barrier

After getting a cheap, very easy in Australia, I located Crockem Aaron, a good fisherman had told me about Ray. If anything I was becoming clear is that without contacts is very difficult to fish on this coast, since, apart from water turbidity and the potential hazards of all warn fishermen, good fishing spots are far and means are needed to reach them. Consequently, having contacts is almost the only way to fish without spending a fortune. Townsville is one of the hubs through which you access the Great Barrier Reef. Actually there are three barriers. The first, nearest visited, is very poor with the constant waves of divers who supports, the second a little more distant, is the most visited by diving cruises, the third, and far from the coast, is the least visited, best preserved and most interesting. To my despair, bad weather also prevailed and just did trips to places near the coast. The rest of the time, it is easy to imagine: pool and beer.

The great opportunity

The weather forecasts were good for the next few days. Aaron was so excited as I am with good prospects and took the opportunity to organize a trip to a faraway place that he described as one of the best in those parts. Five fishermen, three cane-two rifle, loaded all our belongings in a wagon, pulling a large boat of fiber, and very early began our long journey. After several hours of road and several hundred kilometers to the north, through an almost deserted landscape, we reach the banks of a river. There, we put the boat in the water and loaded all our stuff in it and the much needed ice, and we headed east. Navigation lasted over three hours and at dusk we reached our destination, a small island with little vegetation that was 60 miles from the nearest coast. Pick up the tents we took a long time, and the few hours we had left before the sun will go out on the horizon, Ray and I are dedicated to capture dinner. Visibility, without being excellent, it was much better than on the coast and the coral was very similar quality to the Caribbean. In this environment, it was easy to relax and enjoy it for weeks and did not. The next day, if only we were fishing in the morning and then start back, appeared very promising.

Days do not forget

Before dawn we started the preparations. After a light breakfast, we picked up camp and prepared to follow a simple plan: we would leave the boat upstream, about two hundred yards from shore, with a surfboard and some bags to put inside the fish, while, they would depart for fishing offshore trolling and again after about four hours. The current was weak and the surface had just a few small waves. In those conditions, we would not have trouble controlling our journey and soon after dawn we were in the water. After three hours of fishing, there was barely space in our bags packed and we were both relaxed and happy to be there after so many days blighted by bad weather. It seemed a good time to catch the lobsters we had ordered our lunch companions. I located a deep crevice full of them and upon giving to Aaron, spear first. Then, lowering my partner, preferred to leave the lobsters for a little later and decided to spear a nice snapper who had his refuge in the same crack. That's when our worst nightmare began. To lean on the table to let the lobster, I saw a large fin that sailed the sea surface and was heading directly toward us. It seemed an unreal situation. Instinctively, I yelled to Aaron as strong as possible. He was working his snapper, and when I grabbed it with all my strength did not need words, I guess he saw the fear in my eyes. Moments later, the massive body of a giant coot (5) passing between them. After a quick prowl, first turned to me, and when he was discharged over a blow with the butt of the gun with all my strength. In his charge moved me as if I had been hit by a car. I should like him not as an adversary because immediately he turned to Aaron and began to throw repeated bites. My companion flapped frantically in front of its mouth as I tried, no less desperately, load the gun and place a bang stick on the end. For a time it seemed an eternity I assumed that the tragedy was served. When I approached and pointed to the animal's head, I prayed to all gods and prayed that the device would work. A dry sound accompanied by a cloud of blood and offal was what marked the end of the nightmare: a colossus of trembling fell five meters into the depths with a large hole in his head. When our friends arrived shortly after and got into the boat, I still trembled more and more we got livid. Being able to tell is the only positive from that frightening experience. In short, to say the rest of the day was also to forget: the truck broke down in the middle of the desert and took hours to repair, and consequently arrived at Townsville to eleven at night, with lots of fish and no one to whom we could sell it to ease my battered economy finally found a restaurant that bought it all but with the proviso that fileteásemos limpiásemos and all merchandise. That day was the nightmare is over three o'clock, as yet unassimilated chain of events and swearing to myself that I would never catch.

For a sea of sand

The wind blow hard again, a circumstance that took the opportunity to rest and make several visits to the north of the country and meet its wonderful natural beauty. Returning to Townsville, Aeolus was tireless in his guns. It was time to leave. Although my fate was in Perth, across the country, on the southwest coast, first I wanted to tread the paths of the great Australian deserts. It was a long way, first to Alice Springs in the center of the country, and then through the Great Victoria Desert, a sea of red sand. But in these pages there is barely enough space to tell what their evenings, when the Sun and Earth come together, covering all the cloak of deep red, like the sun, after falling relentlessly on the sand during the day , had finally ended up burn the land, or describe the silence of those moments when, looking at the horizon, a rewarding feeling lonely.

Mad about fishing

Speaking of Greg Pickering is talking about the most famous fisherman from around Australia and one of the most prestigious Blue Water Hunters of the world. The list of sporting achievements is long and has several world records for the size of some catches. After spending several weeks with him, I can say without exaggeration that there is a phrase that can accurately define it: a real crazy about fishing. It is totally dedicated to the sea from childhood, and when not collecting the abalone (6), his profession since 1980, is fishing with a rifle. To complete this picture, just say that in the great hall of his house is an exact replica of the large yellow fin tuna that gave the record of this species. Hard to believe if you are not with him. I could just take off the dust of the desert when Greg and his family welcomed me into their home. Of course, I could not be otherwise with this man, the next day we went fishing. They were very interesting days around the city, in funds with many rocks, a few clumps of coral and even algae, but the Indian Ocean did not offer better-looking than the Pacific. To add to my woes, had recently entered a Great White in the port of Perth and I had had enough to tempt me much luck. We tested also on Rottnest Island, but the water was just as dirty, but fishing was excellent. The way to catch Greg impressed me. He ran without stopping from one place to another without a break, sought evidence of activity, which usually was the presence of a large species of salps. He was looking for places with large sections of rock and they had many holes. The first Jewfish, most appreciated, came to expect no problems but after the first arrests became inaccessible. Also entered the Sambo (lemon fish), but they are much appreciated (again carnivorous Anglo-Saxon culture) and we caught a few specimens. It was a sight to see Greg stay completely still on the fence for a long apnea, perfectly straight, without making a single movement and frontal area offering the lowest possible prey. In short, an excellent person and a very fine fisherman and strong. With it I had the unique opportunity to learn many of the secrets of fishing in the blue on species behavior, the material on how to locate and attract fish, and countless details of this great champion ever tired of talking. An interesting anecdote. While I was with Greg, took place in waters near the city the national championship on the west, where they were going out half of those selected to compete in the World Championship in Tahiti. After helping Greg to see the area, the day of the competition became a tidal wave and had to improvise the election of another place. To all this, they insisted that I also participarse. Practice a very selective type of fishing in which you can only catch a certain species and a number of dams each. Score is related to the difficulty of capture. In weather conditions are very favorable to me, with large waves crashing against the shore, I began to fish in any tournament as the Bay of Biscay and the results were surprising. In addition to winning comfortably, I think it was worse for the Australians who suffered the blow of mind: if a stranger beat them well, what would it be if you have to face the monsters Spanish specialty.

Only a life

Finally, in one of our outings to the north, while swimming in whale songs and some seals, again with very little visibility, I determined to end that situation: he had already tempted enough to my fate.

Almost without realizing it was time to face the hardest, most could not postpone the decision, but did not know what to do. He had reached the goal, yes, now what. Although two years wandering the world seems an eternity, something inside me said: Remember, only one life. My roots were elsewhere, but also the warmth of my people longed for, but not yet the time of return. Life had given me the strength to choose that path, to make my dreams come true, and yet I felt that impulse had driven adventure. Only one life, and was willing to take advantage of walking down other paths, also dreamed about, those where the earth has the audacity to reach for the sky, the high peaks of the Himalayas. Although the story of this long journey ends here, surely we will meet other corners of the globe. Until then, most of my gratitude to you, the readers, you have given me the opportunity to relive some of the best moments of my life.

Text: Josetxo Errondosoro

 

Frame 1

Notes

(1) During 2000, there were officially 28 shark attacks across Australia, mostly in the East Coast. Ten of them were fatal, and of these, two occurred in waters near Sydney while Joseba was in Perth, for their investigation by authorities, the attacks were blamed on the white shark (Carcharodon carcharias).

(2) Jewfish (Glaucosoma Hebraicum): There are several species of fish with this name, two in Australia. A, which relates Joseba is a perch that is also known as Pearl Perch, which does not exceed 25 kg. Another, which appears in the official texts, is a species of large sea bass (Argyrosomus japonicus) that can reach 70 kg. Finally, elsewhere given the same name to a kind of giant grouper (Epinephelus itajara) reaching 300 kg

(3) Lupara: Basically, this is a device that can fire bullets or cartridges for hunting underwater. There are several ways to make them, and the Australians were among the most simple, throwaway. Was to take a big Mauser bullet and make it waterproof by applying nail polish on the area where they join the bullet and its sheath and between this and the primer. Then the bullet was introduced into an aluminum cylinder that makes the right size barrel, leaving the tip of the bullet flush with the side through which he was out and the withering of 1 cm from the other side. The clearance between the tip of the bullet and the cylinder was filled with silicone or some similar product after application to stay hard and make sure the bullet into the cylinder. Left behind in the hole is placed a piece of rubber hose whose outer diameter is conformed well to the cylinder and whose inner diameter would fit well on the tip of the rod of the gun. When shooting the rod, the lupara not activated until it hits something hard. At that time, the energy of the rod is discharged onto the primer and the bullet explodes. Contrary to popular belief, not the bullet that causes more damage but are the gas injected by the ignition of gunpowder, which thanks to its high output pressure destroy everything that is located nearby. Anyway, it's normal to fail because it is difficult to get a good seal. They are also very dangerous for the wearer, as if the bang stick hits an object very hard, a stone for example, the rod can reach out bounced and who tripped.

(4) Grey nurse shark or fish bull (taurus Eugomphodus or, more correctly, Carcharias taurus). Es el tiburón típico que se exhibe en los acuarios, sobre todo por su espectacular dentadura. Puede medir algo más de tres metros de longitud y llega a pesar 160 kg. Precisamente por su fiero aspecto, ha sido perseguido sin ninguna otra justificación, hasta tal punto que se ha llevado a la especie hasta el umbral de la extinción. Para complicar más la situación, es uno de los escualos con menor índice de reproducción. Se le considera un tiburón pacífico y que no entraña peligro para los humanos siempre que no se le moleste. No se le debe confundir con el tiburón sarda ( Carcharias leucas ), conocido también como bull shark o tiburón toro, especie ésta que incluso penetra cientos de kilómetros en las aguas de grandes ríos ya la que se le atribuyen muchos ataques a seres humanos, por lo que se considera muy peligrosa. Volviendo al familiar pacífico, al pez toro, suele ser normal verle posado en el fondo o cerca de él en una actitud indolente y algunas de sus poblaciones suelen hacer migraciones importantes.

(5) Horned Giant (Sphyrna mokarran). The largest specimens reaching over 6 meters in length and 450 kg. Of coastal and semi-custom, inhabiting temperate and tropical waters worldwide. No wonder that approach to coastal waters in search of food and adult individuals tend to be solitary. Their usual diet consists of rays, stingrays, groupers and other fish, which include species of reef and small sharks, too, appreciates the squid and lobster. Joseba believe the attack was precisely because they were fishing for lobsters, and the particular sound they make when they caught was the trigger. In any case, it is considered to be dangerous for man. Unfortunately, this huge animal is highly prized by longline fishermen for their large fins, especially the first dorsal, which are sold at astronomical prices in Asian markets.

(6) or abalone Abalone (Haliotis sp.): A mollusk whose meat is highly prized in Asian markets, where it reaches very high prices. To prevent excessive fishing pressure undermine the colonies of these gastropods, the Australian Government has a firm grip on the fishermen, who can exercise their profession only after paying a very expensive licenses. They usually collect them using compressed air, and, due to several fatal encounters with sharks (Greg Pickering has lost several colleagues), many of them are protected with a titanium frame.

Frame 2

Fishing equipment

The differences with our material are given guns. While fishing with a gun Joseba European 100 cm equipped with reel spool plus another assistant at the waist, Australians mainly fished with a robust aluminum tube rifle and comprehensive guide to South African origin, the Rob Allen, in steps of 120 and 130 cm, which joined with a line to a buoy. Say Joseba team worked better in low visibility and small and medium fish, up to 10 or 15 kilos. The best of them was especially large pieces.